Arbutin: What Is It? Benefits of Skincare, Adverse Effects, Application, and More

You probably want to know what options you have in order to lighten dark spots on your skin, brighten your complexion, or lessen the look of hyperpigmentation. Is there one standout component you should be aware of? The topical component arbutin is well-known for leaving your skin glowing.

According to Heidi Prather, MD, a board-certified dermatologist of Westlake Dermatology in Westlake, Texas, and a member of the American Academy of Dermatology, arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone, a topical skin lightening agent. The component can come from specific plants in the Ericaceae family or be created artificially in a lab.

Continue reading to learn more about arbutin, its various forms, and how it compares to other chemicals that lighten skin.

The Advantages of Arbutin for Skincare

Arbutin can help with the look of scars, even out and brighten skin tone, and lighten regions that have been darkened,” says Annie Chiu, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with The Derm Institute in North Redondo Beach, California.

This is the result of arbutin's reaction with your skin's natural pigment, melanin. Excess melanin production in the skin can lead to hyperpigmentation, or darker patches of skin.[2] Hyperpigmentation can be brought on by sun exposure, pregnancy, or using specific drugs. However, according to Dr. Prather, arbutin suppresses melanin activity by acting on the melanin pathway.

In essence, the intricate mechanism by which skin manufactures pigmentation is known as the melanin pathway. According to Prather, different skin-brightening components affect this pathway at different stages. According to Suzanne Friedler, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Advanced Dermatology PC in New York City, arbutin itself inhibits the function of tyrosinase, an enzyme that is crucial to the synthesis of melanin.

Arbutin is superior to controls in reducing hyperpigmentation patches, according to small trials, yet some of these research' strength is questionable.[3] Additionally, studies have noted that arbutin possesses antioxidant qualities, which may contribute to its skin-brightening effects by lowering oxidative stress.

Comparing Alpha and Beta Arbutin

Examining skin-care labels will reveal which goods include beta-arbutin and which ones have alpha-arbutin or deoxyarbutin. Arbutin comes in two synthetic forms: alpha-arbutin and deoxyarbutin, while the plant-derived form is beta-arbutin.

"Studies have demonstrated that alpha-arbutin is more stable and is estimated to be more than 10 times stronger than beta-arbutin, but both forms of arbutin suppress melanin production," Dr. Chiu states.

In fact, a review demonstrates that alpha-arbutin is more potent than natural arbutin. (The study did not contrast deoxyarbutin with these variants of arbutin.)

Arbutin versus Other Ingredients for Skin Lightening

In addition to arbutin, there are numerous other solutions available to you if you want to brighten your skin: Vitamin C, kojic acid, and hydroquinone are all recognized for their possible skin-lightening properties. However, how do they compare?

First, the most effective skin lightening product is hydroquinone lotion.[6] However, it can have negative consequences such as stinging, irritation, contact dermatitis, and discolouration of the skin (Chiu notes that it is prohibited in cosmetic goods in the European Union, Japan, Australia, and several African countries).

Arbutin naturally converts into hydroquinone on the skin, however it is not as efficient as hydroquinone directly. However, Chiu claims that there is less chance of negative effects because the hydroquinone is delivered gradually and skin is not exposed to excessive amounts of it at any one time.

Arbutin and kojic acid, a brightener obtained from specific fungal species, are fairly similar, with the former being more stable than the latter, according to Chiu. Kojic acid is generally more effective than arbutin. Chiu clarifies, nevertheless, that combining these two components is acceptable.

Antioxidant vitamin C also contributes to skin brightness. Arbutin and vitamin C together can increase each other's efficacy, according to her.

Possible Adverse Effects of Arbutin

The good news is that, according to Chiu, arbutin tends to be less harsh and more delicate than other brighteners (such hydroquinone). Patients with delicate skin will benefit most from it, she believes. However, consult your doctor before taking any new products, including those containing arbutin, if you have a skin issue like rosacea or acne.

Using arbutin may result in dermatitis, also known as contact dermatitis, which is skin irritation brought on by coming into contact with an allergen. Redness, itching, dryness, blisters, or rashes are symptoms to be aware of.

How to Include Arbutin in Your Daily Skincare Regimen

According to Chiu, arbutin is "safer and less aggressive compared to hydroquinone," and you can use it safely in quantities of up to 2 percent for face creams and 0.5 percent for body lotions. (She explains that although the EU, Japan, Australia, and several African countries have banned the use of hydroquinone in cosmetic products at concentrations above 1 percent, arbutin is safe at the above concentrations because the hydroquinone is released gradually and the skin is not exposed to too much of it at once.)

It is up to you how many brightening ingredients you use into your routine. For better product absorption and skin cell turnover, Prather advises combining arbutin with retinol. Fortunately, arbutin performs

She suggests using arbutin as a spot treatment to target particular spots or as a daily application to your entire face once or twice.

Sun exposure should also be avoided as it might lead to hyperpigmentation in the first place. Use an SPF 50 mineral-based sunscreen every day to shield your skin against the melanin pathway's hyperactivity, advises Prather. "It's not worth spending money on skin-brightening products if you can't apply sunscreen."

Before evaluating the effects, use arbutin for two to three months, advises Prather. For assistance in formulating the ideal regimen that incorporates complimentary substances for your skin conditions, consult a board-certified dermatologist. 

Summary

In conclusion, arbutin is a skin-brightening agent that works to reduce scars, dark spots, and hyperpigmentation. Despite being less effective than hydroquinone, it has a better safety record and a lower chance of adverse effects.